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Zoeller M53 - 1/3 HP Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump w/ Vertical Float Switch

Name: Zoeller M53 - 1/3 HP Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump w/ Vertical Float Switch
Brand: Zoeller
SKU: 3751
Price: 221.25 USD
Availability: InStock

Model:

53-0001

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$221.25

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In-Stock

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Zoeller M53 - 1/3 HP Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump w/ Vertical Float Switch

Model: 53-0001

$221.25

Accessories

Features

Specifications

Reviews

Product Q&A

How-To Articles

Manuals

Expert Recommended Accessories Selected by Ken, our Expert

Required Accessories 9

These accessories are required to properly setup/install this product.

Optional Accessories 10

Features

Product Video Disclaimer: "PED is not responsible for any variances from the product in this video and the item you purchase. Please review all product specs prior to purchase."

Automatic Submersible Sump Pump
Ideal for average water removal
Cast Iron Switch Case, Motor & Pump Housing
Designed for rapid heat dissipation and extended life
Engineered Thermoplastic Base
Offers years of reliable, trouble-free operation
Vertical Float Switch
Solid and buoyant polypropylene design
Thermally Protected Motor
Oil-filled and hermetically sealed to prevent overheating
Carbon & Ceramic Shaft Seal
Assures maximum protection for extended pump life
Clog-Resistant Design
No screen to interfere with flowing debris
Capable of passing 1/2" diameter solids
Industry Leading Quality Control
Entire unit is pressure tested after assembly

California residents see

WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.

For more information go to: www.p65Warnings.ca.gov

Specifications

53-0001

General Information

Product Category

Sump Pump

Base

Base Material

Thermoplastic

Min Sump Basin Size

18 Inch

Motor

Voltage

120 Volt

Running Amps

9.7

Thermal Protection

Yes

Power Cord Length

9 Feet

Oil Free Motor

Starting Amps

25.9

Pump

Housing Material

Cast Iron

Impeller Material

Plastic

Solids Handling Size

0.5 inch

Handles Solids

Yes

Float Type

Vertical Float

GPH @ 0 feet

2680

GPH @ 5 feet

2680

GPH @ 10 feet

2040

GPH @ 15 feet

1140

Discharge Port Size

1-1/2 Inch

Check Valve Included

Float On

7.25

Float Off

Manual Override

Max Head

19.25 Feet

Submersible

Yes

Engine

Horsepower

.33 HP

Overview

Product Category

Sump Pump

Weight

22 Pounds

Consumer Warranty

3 Years

Product Length

10.2 Inches

Product Width

7.5 Inches

Product Height

10.2 Inches

UPC

053514023607

Additional Model Numbers

M53, 53-0001

Reviews

(518)

Zoeller 53-0001 Reviews & Ratings

Product Q&A

(39)

Product Questions Answered by Ken, the eComfort Product Expert

Do you still need to drill an air relief hole in your pipe if this pump has an air relief hole?

Greg L.

from Massachusetts

November 04, 2018

Answer

An air relief hole in the base portion of the pump to help prevent air lock within the pump. Even with this air relief hole in the pump, it's still highly recommended that you drill a "weep" hole in your discharge pipe. The "weep" hole as it is called should always be drilled in your discharge pipe to prevent an airlock. This is true in sump and sewage applications. Air locking on a sump pump happens when there is air between the pump and the check valve of the discharge line. The trapped air prevents the impeller from drawing in enough fluid to open the check valve to allow discharge. The weight of the fluid on the topside of the check valve keeps it closed. The problem is often noticed after the initial use when the pit has had time to dry out during a dry spell. When it gets water in the pit again, the airlock condition shows up. The pump runs due to the float switch being raised, but can't eject the water because of the airlock condition. I suggest that you drill a 1/8" or 3/16" hole in your PVC discharge pipe, approximately 4" above your pump's discharge port and well within the inside of the basin. Drill the hole at a 45-degree angle so the hole is pointing toward the bottom of your sump basin. Water will be discharged from the weep hole when your pump is operating. This is completely normal.

A typical installation will have the check valve positioned about 2-3 feet above your sump basin cover. If the check valve is screwed directly into the sump pump's discharge port, there is really no place to drill the weep hole, but also less of a chance of airlock due to the positioning of the check valve. The only problem with installing the check valve directly into the pump's discharge port is that it takes more power and effort for the pump to start due to the added weight of all the water sitting above that check valve, especially if your head is 8 feet of higher. When the check valve is installed above the basin cover, it reduces that starting power and also makes for a much easier method of replacing or performing maintenance on your pump and system.

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Jim, how can I prevent water and sand from settling below my beach house? Would this pump work, and also be one that can handle the sand that comes in mixed with water? The beach house we purchased sits on stilts with all concrete drive-thru underneath. The house sits lower than both the street in front and back. If we get heavy rain in a short amount of time, then a heavy flow of water flows directly underneath our house and directly into the pool. It leaves dirt all across our front yard and underneath our house, both of which are concrete. After a big rain, it is not uncommon for the flow of water coming in to be 2-3" deep. I cut a trench 2' wide X 1.5' deep into the concrete running the width of the house,45' and placed the M53 sump pump at the end. It has a 1.25" Pvc discharge pipe tying into 4" pipe that carries the water into a lake behind our home. The pump pumps up 1.5' then 25'to the 4" drain line. This water rushing into this trench will have sand mixed in. Bottom line, this pump is not moving water out fast enough to keep the water from going under the house and into the pool.

CC Kirby

from South Carolina

June 17, 2018

Answer

Based on your description, it sounds like the M53 is ALMOST taking care of the situation, but not quite. IF you have more water than sand, that M53 will handle it. I would suggest increasing the discharge piping from 1-1/4" to 1-1/2" or even 2". If this doesn't do the job, you might increase to the 1/2HP M98 Zoeller pump with the same 1-1/2" or 2" discharge. The 2" discharge WOULD require an adapter for either pump discharge, but should help.

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Is there a big difference between the M53 and M98 when it comes to noise and cycle rate? I have about 12 feet to go up from my sump pit, so would the additional hp help it not run as much with the initial float kick on at 9?"

Aaron H.

from North Dakota

March 21, 2017

Answer

Regarding the noise concern, there should not be any difference as long as the pump is installed properly. Regarding your cycle rate, it may actually increase since it will be emptying your basin quicker. It's always best to keep your cycle rates to a minimum when possible. So if the M53 worked well for you and you never came close to flooding, I would suggest keeping that 1/3HP pump in place. IF that M53 had difficulty with demand at any time however, then I would suggest increasing to the 1/2HP model M98.

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I'm replacing my Zoeller M72 Model with M53. Since M53 have a built in air relief hole do I need to drill a hole into my PVC pipe?

Mike B

from Illinois

April 02, 2016

What can one expect for your model M53 C to last in terms of years?

Rohn V

from Ohio

March 19, 2016

Answer

That's a tough question to answer. Typically, the pump should give you about 5-7 years of life in a standard sump application. That said, I have heard of them lasting 10, 15 and 25+ years in some cases. The switch is the most common reason for failure and can be replaced, though it is a bit involved on the "M" Series models.
If you have any other questions, please let me know.

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Is there a difference between the m53-d mighty mate and the m53

Harold G

from Massachusetts

March 21, 2015

I noticed that the zoeller 1/3hp pump takes 25 amps to start do I need a thirty amp circuit to run a zoeller pump? I have a twenty amp circuit with 12gauge wire for my wayne spf33 1/3 hp pump.

Gene K

from Illinois

December 29, 2014

Answer

Thank you for your interest in Sump Pumps Direct. As with any question that I get on wiring pumps, I must refer you to the fact that all manufactures do state the following:
Make sure the pump electrical supply circuit is equipped with fuses or circuit breakers of proper capacity.
A separate branch circuit is recommended, sized according to the “National
Electrical Code” for the current shown on the pump nameplate.

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Jim, I currently have a 1/3HP pedestal pump discharging through a 1-1/4" pipe. My pit is 15" across by 24" deep. When it rains, my pit fills up very quickly and the pump goes every 2-3 minutes. I want to replace it and was looking at this pump because my existing one is old and noisy. My concern is that it will be going off even more often if I change to a submersible style pump because it sits lower in the pit. Will that be the case? I don't want it to have to run more often then it does now.

Karl D

from New Jersey

October 01, 2014

Answer

Thank you for your interest in Sump Pumps Direct. One of the advantages to pedestal pumps is that you have the ability to adjust the float switch to allow the pump to evacuate more water out of your pit per cycle, thereby reducing the number of cycles per hour. Introducing a submersible pump like the Zoeller model M53, should give you a quieter pump but it may very well cycle more frequently than your current 1/3HP pedestal. One option you could look at to overcome this, would be to install the non-automatic version MODEL N53. You could then install a separate electronic switch like the Pro Series Ultimate Sensor Digital Pump Controller System, model USC3 or the HydroCheck Electronic Hi-Lo Pump Switch, model HC6000. These "piggyback" style switches will give you the ability to fine-tune the ON/OFF levels for your pump operation.

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My Zoller pump has a threaded female connector on the body. What am I expected to put between the pump body and the bottom clamp of this check valve?

from California

September 17, 2014

I plan to replace a non working Zoeller M53 in a recently purchased house with a new Zoeller M53. Two questions: 1) the current set up uses 1 inch PVC discharge pipes - up about 8 feet and then horizontal for another 15 feet until exiting the house. Is the 1 inch pipe OK, or is it necessary to change to 1 1/2 inch pipes? 2) what is the recommended location for the new check valve? I was planning to go about half way up the vertical pipe. Thanks, Jim

Gene

from Missouri

August 24, 2014

Answer

Thank you for your interest in Sump Pumps Direct. The discharge on the Zoeller M53 is 1-1/2" and as such, you should resort to that same size piping to achieve optimum performance and pumping capacity. If you must reduce the piping, I don't recommend that you go any smaller than 1-1/4". Reducing it further will only create more backpressure on the pump which will reduce the pump life, not to mention the reduction in pumping capacity that you would realize.
The check valve placement can be anywhere from the discharge port of the pump to about 2-3 feet above the sump basin cover. The latter is my suggestion as it also allows for a good place to gain access to your system for service.
If you have additional questions, please let me know.

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I am thinking of buying the Zoeller M53 - 1/3 HP Cast Iron Submersible Sump Pump w/ Vertical Float Switch. But I was wondering does this need more than a 15 amp outlet, due to start up amps?

Bill

from Maryland

March 01, 2014

Installing an underground sump pump to drain water coming under the house. Was thinking about ordering the following kit, but I am not sure if the basin is the correct one for a sump pump or if we should switch it to something bigger. Zoeller 1050001 13 HP M53 Remote SinkDrain Pump System w Vertical Float Switch Thank you, Nestor Ho

Nestor H

from Texas

October 21, 2013

Answer

Thank you for your interest in Sump Pumps Direct. It really depends on how you plan on getting the water into the sump basin. If you are doing a typical basement INSTALLATION, I would advise something more like the Zoeller model M53 or M98, depending on your water table. I would then suggest installing a standard SUMP BASIN and COVER. You can then tie this in to a french drain or you can drill holes in the basin to allow the water to seep through and into the basin for discharge by the pump. If you are looking to install this system outdoors or in a crawl space, the Liberty 1/3 HP Cast Iron Crawl Space Sump Pump Kit, model CSP-257 might be a better choice.
And don't forget the CHECK VALVE.

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I have a Zoeller sub pump 1198 horizontal install, I would like to buy another pump,where this one is quite old. What is the model # I should buy. There is no info on tag that is attached the plug wire. I want to say this pump is at least 30 years old. I have never replaced it. Could you please tell me what I would need to purchase. I don not have any owners manuel on product all I could find was 1198 horizontal Install on pump. Can you please assist me. Thanks, Rebekah

Rebekah T

from Massachusetts

June 14, 2013

I have a M53-D Zoeller pump that is about 10yrs old.I was told by my home builder that it was rated to pump vertical up to 10ft.is this true?I have miss placed my owners manual and now the switch is bad so that the pump runs constant till it over heats,is that do to pumping vertical for 10yrs out of my basement for a washer?By the way it has been a great pump and will never own anything but a Zoeller for the rest of my time.Thank you.

Darrell A

from Virginia

April 20, 2013

Answer

The Zoeller M53 is and has been a great pump for many years! It is designed to handle a maximum of 15 feet of vertical lift. I have heard of this pumps lasting for 10, 15, 20 and even up to 30 years. Chances are that the switch has failed and needs to be replaced, which is a common occurrence. We do offer the Replacement Mechanical Switch for M53 and the Zoeller Complete Cover Assembly & Switch Kit For M53 Sump Pump. Please note however that the switch requires installation by you or a certified plumber/contractor and ALL SALES ARE FINAL - NO RETURNS ALLOWED ON THIS PRODUCT.

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Should the switch compartment of the M53 remain above the waterline or be watertight, because when i opened to determine if i should replace the switch a lot of water came out. All the terminals are corroded so it's been running like this for some time. I'd prefer to bypass the switch altogether but not if the compartment can't be sealed properly.

Steve

from Wisconsin

April 20, 2013

Answer

There is a rubber gasket between the switch housing and pump housing that form a water-tight seal to protect the switch connections. If water has seeped into the switch housing, this would certainly compromise the performance and safety of the pump and I would highly recommend replacing the pump. Under normal operating conditions, it is NOT uncommon for the pump and switch housing to be completely submerged.

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Jim what is the difference between a m53 and a m57 zoeller pump

Garver

from Illinois

February 11, 2013

What does min. sump basin size mean?

John D

from Massachusetts

February 02, 2013

Answer

The minimum sump basin size relates to the minimum size of your sump basin or pit, that a specific pump will safely operate in. Any pump needs a certain amount of space due to "on/off" levels, cooling factors and cycling that the pump is designed for. Most pumps will require a standard size basin of 18" wide by 24" deep but some will also operate in smaller basins. You want to pay very close attention to these requirements as they will insure a longer pump life.

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I have a Zoeller M53 1/3 hp sump pump. It is at least 7 years old. I think older. It has been running well, but now it will not come on. the float is free and clear, but will not kick on unless i just tap the arm. The the pump works fine. I have cleaned the pump, well and float. Do I have to replace the pump?

Stephen

from Delaware

February 01, 2013

Answer

The normal life of a sump pump is about 7-10 years, though I have heard of some going 10-20 years and more. Zoeller pumps are known to last but are also known for some switch problems. Please note that all manufacturers do recommend that you inspect your pump and basin every 3-6 months to insure that they are working properly. That being said, you can make the call on weather you would like to replace the pump or the SWITCH. If you decide to replace the switch, please be advised it would require installation by you and ALL SALES ARE FINAL AND THERE ARE NO RETURNS ALLOWED ON THIS PRODUCT.

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Is any maintenance required on the M53 pump? I see there are two white plugs on the pump and I'm wondering if oil needs to checked or added periodically or any other type of maintenance is needed.

Jim M

from Nebraska

December 22, 2012

Answer

The only maintenance that is required is what all manufacturers recommend. And that is to inspect your pump, float switch and sump basin every 4-6 months to insure that they are operating properly and there is no debris in your basin that could impede the pump or float switch operation. Oil should NOT need to be added at any time unless the pump develops a leak which is pretty rare. If that should happen, it's usually easier to have it serviced at a local authorized Zoeller service center or replace the pump.

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What locations in Anchorge sells your product. I think only only one model m53 can be ordered through Sears.

from Alaska

December 11, 2012

Answer

Unfortunately, I would not have the answer to that question. We are an online retail store that sells and ships many different brands of pumps all over the United States. We are based in Bolingbrook, Illinois and only operate out of this single location. You might try looking at our listing of manufacturer contact PHONE NUMBERS to find the manufacturer of the pump that you are interested in and then calling them for assistance on finding a local dealer.

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I am getting a portable generator and want to include my zoeller m53-d pump to be one of the items supported by the generator. What kind of draw (startup and normal operation) should I include in my calculations for sizing the generator. Note, in hurricane Irene my pump was going off every minute.

John B

from New Jersey

November 04, 2012

Answer

While the Zoeller pumps are one of the better pumps out there, they are not very efficient. The M53 runs at 9.6 amps and requires 25.9 amps to start. When using the formula of amps X volts = watts, you would need a minimum 1152 running watts and 3108 starting watts to operate your pump. When using generators, you should never load them up any more that 80% of their capacity at any time, so you might consider a generator with about a 4000 watt starting watt capacity.

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I purchased a home with a zoeller sump pump already installed in the basement. Is there any way for me to tell whether it is a 1/3 or 1/2 hp model? I need to buy a generator, so I'm trying to determine what size. Thanks

Mich

from Tennessee

November 03, 2012

Answer

There is usually a brass tag mounted on the top side of the pump between the the power cord relief and the float switch arm that will give you the model number and date code in addition to the voltage and amps. If that is not visible, you can measure the height of the pump. The 1/3HP model is just over 10 inches tall and the 1/2HP model is just over 12 inches tall.

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I would like to know how many watts a 1/3 or 1/2 hp sump pump has, because i was think of buying a portable generator in case the power goes off.

Tom B.

from New York

September 03, 2012

Answer

That really depends on the pump. Some are more efficient than others. For example, the 1/3HP Basement Watchdog model BW1033 has a running amp rating of 3.5 and a starting amp rating of 7. When you figure the watts by the formula of amps times volts equals watts ( A X V = W), you get 420 running watts and 840 starting watts. But when you look at the Zoeller 1/3HP model M53, that pump has a running amp rating of 9.6 and a starting amp rating of 29.6 or 1152 running watts and 3552 starting watts.

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What kind of warranty do you have on your pumps?

John

from Pennsylvania

July 03, 2012

I installed the Zoeller M53 with the recommended 1 1/2" Zoeller check valve. I mounted the check valve about 5' above the base of the pump, about 2 1/2' above the check valve the pipe makes a 90 degree turn. All is operating well - Leading up to a question, I think I am getting some water hammer. The pump starts smooth but when it switches off it rattles the pipes. Any suggestions? I installed according to directions.

Steve

from North Carolina

May 14, 2012

Answer

You might try to brace and/or pad any area of the discharge pipe that may be coming in direct contact with any walls, ceilings or joists to try to reduce the vibration that is being caused by the sudden reversal of the water flow once that pump switches off and that check valve slams shut. Sometimes you will need to install a check valve with a spring-loaded rubber flapper like the PeakFlow model PFQCCV15 Clear Quiet Check Valve 1-1/2" or the Basement Watchdog Klunkless Check Valve. These check valves should help reduce the "thumping" sound if they don't eliminate it all together.

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live 1 bloock from river i get water from that and ground water. i have 1 zollerm53 if it stops iam done. i want 2sump pumps 1 higher tha other. for safty

Bill

from New Jersey

April 28, 2012

Answer

You are describing a fairly common application. A lot of homeowners will install 2 sump pumps in their sump basin for this type of situation. The main pump will be set to activate at about 12 inches of water and the secondary pump will be set to activate at about 14-16 inches of water in the event the main pump cannot handle the amount of water coming in. Please note however, that you will also need protection in the event of a power outage. In that case, your best defense is a higher output BATTERY BACKUP SYSTEM or a small STANDBY GENERATOR.

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I have a Zoeller M53 in a basement sump 24 in. deep. the pump rests on the bottom and the float activates Approx. every hour for maybe 5 seconds max. Can i raise the pump in the sump 6 inches or so and therefore pump more water per cycle. Thereby cycling only maybe only every two hours. If I raise it 6 in. the water table would still be approx. 8 in. below underside of concrete floor when the float activates. This pump is approx 7 years old, seems to work fine , do I need to consider replacing and with what. Located in NW Ohio and water table is fairly high.

David O

from Ohio

January 23, 2012

Answer

The switch on the Zoeller M53 has about a 4 1/4" differential so by raising your pump in your basin, you will effect the level at which the pump will activate, however you will NOT effect how much water is pumped out. Your only option would be to either replace the pump with a different type of switch, possibly a tether or electronic switch or by rigging the switch on your M53 to stay on and then add another "piggyback" style switch. The Pro Series model USC3, the Superior model 92005 or the StromPro model ING-2-10-1B switches would all give you the capability of adjusting the actual runtime of your pump.

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I am torn between which Zoeller pump would be best for my application. My basement is 104' and currently takes in approximately 3" of water when there is a hard rain. The water is only on one side of the basement and never comes up on the other. Would you recommend a 1/3 hp or 1/2?

Joe

from New Jersey

January 15, 2012

Answer

Without knowing more specifics like the water table, area of the country you live in, actual square footage of your basement, etc., it really is difficult to answer. I can tell you that most average sized homes in an average water table area can usually get away with a 1/3HP or 1/2HP pump. Beware of over-sizing the pump as it could cause the pump to cycle too frequently thereby reducing the life of the pump. You don't want to just install a 3/4HP or 1HP pump just for the sake of it.

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Is the Zoeller m53 availiable with a longer cord?

Chris Allphin

from California

January 09, 2012

can i buy a new switch for m53

from

November 14, 2011

I purchased a super-sump 1/3 hp Zoellar cast iron pump last July. I would like to buy a generator to run that sump pump plus my icebox which takes 6.5 amps/115 volts. What size generator would I need to run both of these during a storm? Thank you.

Kathy Morocco

from Virginia

July 31, 2011

Answer

The starting amps for the M53 are 25.9. You would really need to know the starting amp rating for your ice box to get an accurate number to size your generator. The 6.5 amps you mention are the running amps. The compressors on the icebox always require more amperage or power to start because of the extra torque needed. Once you can obtain that number, multiply it by the voltage (120), add 3108 (the starting watts for the M53 pump) and add 20% to the total. That would tell you exactly what size generator you would need to run both appliances at the same time. Amps times volts give you watts.
I can ASSUME that the icebox would be in the neighborhood of 32 amps. At that rate, together with the sump pump running at the same time, I would estimate that you would need between a 6000 and 7000 watt rated generator. If you can get away with switching between the two appliances, you could go with a 4000-5000 watt rated generator.

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wanting to buy a battery backup system for the M 53 . Should I buy the 507 or 510?

Bill Knight

from Illinois

April 30, 2011

Hi there, I'm planning on using this pump and a Jackel sump basin ( or something like that) to move water from a "lake" in my diveway, about 50' horizontally to a flower bed. How far will this pump move the water? No head, actually probably a foot or two lower. I'll be using 1.25" PVC terminating in some sort of perforated drain pipe... HELP!!

Jeff Bell

from North Carolina

February 11, 2011

Can you raise the vertical float switch to accommodate a higher water level in the sump pump pit on this Zoeller submersible sump pump, if so, how?

Daniel

from Illinois

February 07, 2011

My pump keeps running, is it the switch or the pump?

Dennis Lainson

from Iowa

February 05, 2011

I have a Zoeller submersible sump pump don't no the model but it has a 9 foot cord, is it a m53? I found it running with no water in the pit,unplugged it and moved the float up and down a few times and plugged it back in, and it is working okay now. The pump is about 6 years old, should i replace it or is there something else i can do. Sort of worried it might fail and flood the basement.

Gary Smith

from Ohio

January 23, 2011

the pump is not turning off. Is the switch stuck? Can it be replaced? I gave it a good rap, but to no avail. The zoeller M53 unit is approximately 3 years old.

Bill Howard

from Georgia

January 15, 2011